Llerena is a historic town characterised by traditional whitewashed houses with red-tiled roofs, arcaded squares, and a blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Mudéjar architecture. Significant buildings include the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Granada, the Palace of Zapata, and the former Palace of the Inquisition. The surrounding countryside supports cereal farming, olive groves, vineyards, and livestock, particularly the Iberian pig. Llerena stands out from similar historic towns because it was an important administrative centre of the Order of Santiago and later the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition in Extremadura, giving it an exceptional concentration of monumental architecture and historical significance.

We arrived in Llerena just as a medieval market was being set up in the main town square. At first, I was slightly disappointed, as the stalls and activity would make it much more difficult to photograph what is perhaps the town’s greatest visual attraction.

However, as the day unfolded, the market became part of the experience. We spent a very enjoyable day exploring the town, walking along what remains of the old walls, and wandering through its streets. We visited several museums, met some wonderfully friendly people, and discovered a place with far more character than we had expected. I particularly remember the thousands of swifts wheeling around the church tower, a sight that became one of the defining images of our visit. Their constant movement against the old stonework seemed to capture the character of Llerena.